![]() ![]() You will need the procedures for the antilock system, on some, you just remove the plug and bleed them the normal way. It would be best if you have a friend that has done this before to help you, you need a second person anyway. What is your opinion regarding the difficulty of a newbie bleeding a brake system? It does not mention the utilization of anything more complex like a bleed screw. In addition, the Haynes manual that I purchased for that vehicle only suggests removing 2/3 of the brake fluid from the reservoir before completing the brake job. I know that people do use it but I know nothing about how to properly bleed a brake system - so I am somewhat afraid to try that myself. ![]() I have never used a bleed screw during a brake job. That would probably also explain why the piston was slowly coming back out after I had compressed it. I assume that after compressing the second piston there was too much pressure pumping back ino the reservoir and it began to slowly leak out through the reservoir cap. Thanks rripstop I just opened the cap to brake fluid reservoir - I opened it slowly and heard the same noise (hissing) that I had heard while performing the brake job. The slight hiss and the fact that the caliper piston did not stay seated after I compressed it bothers me. This is my first brake job on this vehicle. The pedal is not spongy and it does not travel all the way to the floor.ĭo I have anything to worry about? This is my 6th brake job in total. ![]() I completed the brake job, pumped the brakes, and took it for a ride - all seems fine. I compressed it again with a c clamp and had to rush to get the caliper back in place with the new pads in place before the piston SLOWLY worked itself back out and I wouldn’t be able to fit the caliper around the new rotors and pads. In addition, as I placed the new inner pad against the caliper/piston, I noticed that the piston had become slightly “uncompressed,” meaning it moved back out a little bit on its own. Left front - I heard a faint “hiss” as I compressed the caliper piston using a c clamp. Right front rotor and pad installation went perfectly. Next, let's discuss the proper way to re-insert the guide pins.I just completed a front brake job on a 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan, installing new rotors and pads. In that case, you'll need to find an experienced mechanic to discuss your options. If the guide pins are really stuck in there, or if they're rusted in place, you may have a problem on your hands. Caliper pin removal tools are also available at auto parts stores. The pins should be easy to take out with a screwdriver and a few light taps from a hammer. Also, the pins could be stuck in the rotor or they won't go in all the way after the pads have been replaced. Problems to look for include caliper pins that are corroded, or ones that aren't properly lubricated. Most cars have two guide pins with a rubber housing surrounding each. See those pins at the top of the housing? Those are the guide pins. Lift the car, remove the tires, take the caliper off and look at the caliper housing. In fact, it's a good idea to check the pins whenever you're changing the pads yourself. ![]() So how do you know if the guide pins are at fault? You'll need to inspect the brakes like you're about to change the pads. ![]()
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